1. Slot Size In Concrete Fence Posts
2. Wooden Slot In Fence Posts
3. Slot In Fence Posts At Home Depot
4. Slot In Fence Posts Home Depot
5. Slot In Fence Posts Barbed

Removing an old fence post can be a pain in the ass – especially if the post has rotted and fallen off. That’s because fence posts are set in a concrete footing that is usually at least two feet deep in the ground. You could dig it out, but that takes too long. How to properly dig post holes and set the posts when constructing a splt rail fence. Attaching rails to the posts so they interlock inside the pre-drilled slots in the posts. It needs to be physically attached and isn't something which can make use of a slot in a post. If there is no system to fix to slotted posts then I suppose I could strap the loose frame to my concrete post with thin fencing wire, but that means drilling my new panel every inch or so and would look as cheap & nasty as it sounds. Slotted Post Jacksons slotted fence posts are designed to be used with almost all of our fence panels, with the exception of Metro. Jakposts are generally more supportive than square posts and easier to erect than concrete posts.

There are two common basic methods of constructing rails for board fencing, the easiest method is to have the rails on the front of the posts then fitting the boarding along the whole length. The alternative method is to fit the rails between the posts (with their front faces about 25 mm back from the front of the posts, and then fix the boards between the posts.

The rails

Two types of rails are commonly found - arris rails with a triangular cross-section, and cant rails which are more or less rectangular with the top edge sawn at an angle to allow rainwater to run off away from the fence boards.

Traditionally arris rails had tongues cut at their ends which fitted into slots cut in the posts. The tongues took the full weight of the forces on the fence, so they often broke after a time.

Galvanised steel repair brackets, which are available in a number of designs to suit both arris and cant rails could be used to repair broken rails as necessary. These repair bracket can be used when constructing a new fence, they avoid having to spend a lot of time cutting the tongues and slots.

Unless the boards are going to be fitted between the posts, it is simpler to use cant rails (with their vertical back edge) and fix them across the front of the fence posts.

Concrete posts can be used and the cant rails secured to the posts by bolts with their heads recessed into the rails using suitable holes though the posts, or special posts are available to take metal brackets to suit the type of rail being used.

In general, rails should be positioned no greater than about 200 mm (8 inches) down from the top of the boards or up from the bottom. Vertical spacing between rails should be no greater than about 700 mm (28 inches). This allows for a fence up to about 1.1 m (43 inch) to be built with just two rails, while fences over that should have 3 rails with the middle rails equally spaced vertically between the upper and lower rails.

Erecting the posts and rails

The traditional slotted arris rails.

Slot Size In Concrete Fence Posts

If the posts being used do have have slots already cut to accept the trimmed arris rails, the first job is to cut the slots. The slots can be simply made by drilling three, overlapping holes all the way through the posts using a 20mm (7/8in) flat bit in an electric drill. To clean up the holes, use a chisel to remove the surplus wood in the slot.

The ends of the arris rails should be trimmed using a saw and finished off with a file so they are a snug fit in the post slots.

Before assembly, paint the slots and ends of the rails with wood preservative. Start by erecting one end post ensuring that it is vertical. Stretch a string line along the proposed run of the fence to the end of the fence run to ensure that subsequent posts are in line.

Set out the intermediate posts, try to keep them equally spaced with no more than 3m (10ft) between each pair. Dig a hole for the second post and push the ends of each arris rails into the slots in the first two posts.

Use timber struts to temporarily hold the posts upright, and check with a spirit level that the rails are horizontal (unless the ground is on a slope in which case, check that the rails are in the line of the general slope). If necessary dig the hole deeper, or pack it up with broken bricks, to get the post at the correct level.

Continue in this manner with the third and subsequent posts until all the posts and rails have been completed. If it is impossible to move the last post sufficiently to allow the rails to be fitted in the slots, the last rails can be sawn off square and attached to this last post using galvanised rail repair brackets.

With all the posts inserted and temporarily strutted, hard-core can be rammed around each (ensure that each remains vertical) and fixed permanently using concrete (see fence posts) at soil level. When the concrete has hardened, go along the posts and drive a nail, at an angle, in the front of each post to secure the tongue of each rail in the post slot.

Using cant rails on the front face of the fence posts.

Erect the posts as described above at no more than 3m (10ft) spacing and secure them using concrete.

When the concrete has hardened, the cant rails can be fixed to the front face of each pair of posts. The rails can be fixed either in line with the next, or staggered. By staggering then, a stronger fixing may be achieved as the nails are not so near the ends of the rails as the other joints.

For fence posts that are firmly set and straight, all you need is a good technique, a helpful friend, and the right products.

Photo: istockphoto.com

Good fences start with good foundations. Installing fence posts in place with concrete is the best way to guarantee that they remain upright and unmoving, but you might not relish the idea of mixing batch after batch of concrete to fill each posthole. The good news? You don’t have to! With a surprisingly low-effort product from Quikrete and the following technique, you’ll avoid the mess and your fence posts will be able to withstand virtually anything Mother Nature dishes out.

How to Install Fence Posts

MATERIALS AND TOOLS Available on Amazon
– Metal or treated wood fence posts
– Posthole digger (or auger)
– Quikrete AllPurpose Gravel
– Gloves
– Protective eyewear
– Dust mask
– Quikrete FastSetting Concrete Mix
– 1gallon bucket
– Carpenter’s level
– Sharpshooter shovel

STEP 1

For a fence, it’s imperative to start with posts that are arrow-straight. This isn’t an issue with metal posts, but wood posts have a tendency to twist or warp slightly. If you’re using treated wood, select the straightest posts you can find to avoid running into problems.

STEP 2

Dig the postholes using a manual posthole digger or an auger. The standard rule of thumb is to bury at least a third of the length of the fence post in the ground (half is better), but local building codes may require a minimum depth, such as 30 inches, so check with your local building authority before you start. After you determine how deep the hole should be, add six inches to allow for the addition of gravel in the bottom.

STEP 3

Make the holes wide enough to fill with concrete. The minimum recommended diameter is three times the width of the posts. So, if you’re installing standard four-inch-wide treated wood posts, the holes will need to be 12 inches in diameter.

STEP 4

Add six inches of gravel, such as Quikrete All-Purpose Gravel, to the bottom of the holes. Gravel provides a solid base for the fence post to sit on and prevents it from coming into direct contact with the soil below, which might increase the risk of rotting.

STEP 5

Tamp down the gravel using the bottom of the fence post. To do this, set the post in the hole and, with gloved hands, lift the post up a few inches and bring it back down hard on the gravel. Repeat this three to five times to even out the gravel.

STEP 6

Position the post in the center of the hole and hold it upright. This is where you’ll need an assistant who can hold the pole in place while you fill around it.

Photo: quikrete.com

STEP 7

Grab your work gloves again and also put on protective eyewear and a dust mask—pouring dry concrete mix is a dusty job, and you don’t want to inhale it or get it in your eyes. Then, pour dry Quikrete Fast-Setting Concrete Mix into the hole, getting an even amount around all sides of the post.

Keep the post upright and centered as you fill the hole, but do not lift the post—if you do, you’ll have a tough time getting it back to the gravel bottom.

STEP 8

Continue filling the hole with the dry fast-setting concrete mix until the mix sits approximately three inches below ground level.

A 50-pound bag of mix will make approximately 0.375 cubic feet of concrete. So, to fill a 30-inch-deep hole that is 12 inches in diameter, you’ll need five bags of Fast-Setting Concrete Mix. If you don’t want to do the math, enter the depth of the hole into the Quikrete Fast-Setting Concrete Mix calculator. It will tell you exactly how many bags of mix you’ll need to set for standard post sizes and hole diameters.

STEP 9

Pour water on top of the dry concrete mix at a ratio of about one gallon per 50-pound bag. For the 30-inch-deep hole mentioned above, that would require about fivegallons of water. Add slowly, allowing the water to seep down and saturate the mix. As you’ll see in this video from the concrete experts at Quikrete, the dry mix will react on its own without more work from you!

NOTE: For holes deeper than 30 inches, it’s a good idea to add the dry concrete mix and the water in two steps. For example, if you’re installing a tall post in a four-foot-deep hole, add half of the estimated amount of dry mix, then add half of the water, followed by the rest of the dry mix and the rest of the water. By doing this, you’ll ensure that the dry mix at the bottom of the hole receives adequate water.

STEP 10

Photo: istockphoto.com

Level the post as soon as the mix and water have been added to the hole. Place a carpenter’s level along two adjacent sides to make sure the post is plumb.

NOTE: While you can level every post by hand this way, it’s not the most efficient process for installing three or more fence posts in a straight line—see the tips for “Creating a String Guide,” below, instead.

When the post is perfectly level and plumb, use a narrow sharpshooter shovel (even a stick or pole will do) to press the wet concrete firmly around the post’s base.

Work quickly. Quikrete Fast-Setting Concrete Mix will set in 20 to 40 minutes, and once it hardens, the post can no longer be adjusted. Wait four hours for the concrete to cure before continuing construction of your fence.

STEP 11

Wooden Slot In Fence Posts

Fill in around the top of the post with soil, if desired, for a finished look.

NOTE: If you live in an area that gets a lot of rain and you’re installing treated wood posts, you may want to top off the hole with sloped concrete to help direct water away from the post to prevent the wood from rotting. See tips for “Topping Off the Hole with Concrete,” below.

Photo: istockphoto.com

Tips to Keep in Mind

Creating a String Guide:

When installing multiple fence posts in a straight line, the simplest way to guarantee professional results, with all posts level and perfectly aligned with one another, is with a string guide. To get started, you’ll need a hammer, nails (8d is a good size), and resilient string or twine.

1. Dig all the postholes and then set just the two end posts following the step-by-step above. Let the concrete cure four to six hours.
2. Insert two nails into the outer side of each end post, one six inches from the bottom and the other six inches from the top. Leave the heads of the nails sticking out 1/8 inch from the posts.
3. Run two strings taut between the posts, one on the upper set of nails and the other on the lower set of nails. Push the strings outward, toward the heads of the nails, to create a string guide that’s 1/8 inch away from the posts.
4. To set the subsequent posts, position each post in its hole, keeping it 1/8 inch away from both the top and bottom strings.
5. Repeat Steps 4 through 10 while your assistant holds each post in place. Don’t allow the posts to touch the strings—maintain the 1/8-inch gap, and your fence should be in line and level with the first two.

Topping Off the Holes with Concrete:

Slot In Fence Posts At Home Depot

Live in an area that gets a lot of rain? Instead of filling in the top of the hole with soil that could hold moisture at the base of your fence post, add a little more concrete to divert rainwater away from the post and protect it from rot at ground level. You’ll need just a bucket or wheelbarrow to mix the concrete and a trowel to smooth it in place.

Slot In Fence Posts Home Depot

1. After all the posts are set and the concrete has cured, mix some extra Quikrete Fast-Setting Concrete Mix in a wheelbarrow or bucket, following the mix-to-water ratio on the bag. One 50-pound bag of mix will top off approximately four 12-inch-wide holes.
2. Shape the semi-solid wet concrete around the post using a trowel to create a gentle slope away from the post. A slope of about ½ inch is all that’s necessary.
3. Top off all the holes in the same manner so that when it rains, the water will run down and away from the posts.

Slot In Fence Posts Barbed

This content has been brought to you by Quikrete. Its facts and opinions are those of BobVila.com.